Tips for Easy Embroidery on Thick Items

February 04, 2011
By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

In the past, I have written articles about embroidering on thick items. Thick jackets, vests and other items can present a variety of obstacles, including simply getting them in the hoop. Some items, such as down and bomber jackets, as well as quilted pieces, can be next to impossible to embroider. They can be challenging to frame and embroider not necessarily because they are thick — they often will compress enough to get into a frame — but because of the filler between the layers of material that cause them to be puffed up.

Many of these items use a poly-fil batting. This type of filler can cause a couple of challenges for embroiderers. First, while the poly-fil may compress momentarily, it tends to revert to its original shape. This characteristic makes poly-fil a popular choice for stuffing in pillows.

While this may help reduce neck pain when used in pillows, it can create difficulty when trying to embroider items like ski jackets. Trying to embroider items using this type of filler can result in situations where the hoop randomly pops apart. Usually, it happens before you even get the item on the machine, but it also can happen in the middle of sewing a design.

Loosen the Screws
One popular solution, the use of adhesive backing to stick down hard to frame items, doesn’t work with these types of jackets. Because they have two layers, you’re only sticking down the lining. This allows the top layer to move around while the garment is being embroidered.

The best way that I have found to frame these types of garments is to loosen the adjusting screw a little more than necessary and then frame the item. Then, while holding the hoop in place, try to push some of the air out of the center of the hoop and tighten the screw as much as possible.

I know it sounds like you need three hands to accomplish this task, but it can be done with just two … and maybe a forearm. These are the times when it is good to have help. If you work alone, like me, you may need to create an alternative solution. I have been known to lay a wooden 2x4 across the hoop to help hold it down while attempting to frame an item.

Put the Clamps On
One of my favorite tools, which I use regularly on thick items, is a pair of little plastic clamps. Typically, these can be purchased from your local home-improvement store. I affix the clamps onto the edge of the hoop to keep it from popping apart while I tighten it. I often leave one or two pairs of clamps on the hoop while the garment is being embroidered. You have to be careful of where the clamps are placed so that they will not interfere with the machine, but they will ensure the hoop will not come apart.

Underlay Can Minimize Flagging
The second obstacle that heavily-filled garments cause is flagging. Typically, flagging occurs when there is space between the material and the needle plate. The movement of the fabric being pushed up and down by the presser foot resembles a flag flapping in the breeze. With heavily filled items, the flagging is caused by the space between the two layers of material.

Flagging can causes the design’s registration to be off. It also can cause looping in your stitching, particularly in running stitches.

Normally, flagging can be corrected with proper framing or a machine adjustment. In this case, the flagging is inherent in the material, so it must be dealt with in the design. The first thing to do is to underlay as much as possible at one time. If the design is a solid area made of many colors, underlay behind them all at one time. This flattens the material and minimizes the flagging.

I have had some jobs that required an appliqué on puffy material. I laid down an underlay behind the appliqué area to flatten it so that the appliqué border would cover the material properly.

Additionally, keep the stitches as short as possible, particularly for the underlay. Long underlay stitches will pop loose and stick up through the top stitching. Keep running and underlay stitches under 2.5mm to help minimize the looping.

Despite the challenges, puffy items do well with embroidery. They often have nice smooth surfaces that make the stitching sit up nicely. If you can learn to overcome the hooping and flagging issues that heavily filled garments present, they can become less of a pain the neck and more padding in your wallet.

Steven Batts, a consultant with more than 20 years experience in the embroidery industry, owns Righteous Threads, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery and machine maintenance services. Steven regularly leads seminars at ISS shows and is an industry speaker and consultant. For more information or to comment on Steven’s article, e-mail righteousthreads@gmail.com.



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