Proper Framing Avoids Headwear Headaches

March 03, 2010
By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

Structured caps work best when they aren’t pulled as tight; as a result, they work really well in a 270-degree frame.

Caps are a large part of most any embroiderer’s business, but varying opinions and attitudes exist about embroidering them: Some would like to do nothing but caps, while some would be glad if they never had to embroider another one again.

The reaction could depend on the level of success experienced when embroidering finished caps. I, for example, actually like embroidering caps. Additionally, when I train new help, I like to begin with cap fronts first — not because I like torturing them, but because framing and embroidering caps involve fixed steps.

There are fewer variations with caps than there are with other items that we embroider. They can learn the steps involved in framing a cap and get comfortable with it before they have to learn the variations of fabrics, stabilizers and hoop sizes.

Unstructured Vs. Structured Caps
While caps come in many varieties, when embroidering the front of a cap, only two types really matter: structured and unstructured. Unless you're embroidering side or back placements, the other variations mean very little. The way I handle structured caps vs. unstructured caps is very different, particularly when working with a 270-degree frame.

When working with an unstructured cap, stabilization needs to be created during the framing process. For this reason, use the stiff cap backing, which provides the stabilization the fabric needs for embroidery, gives the cap form and holds it while it is being embroidered. Unstructured caps need to be pulled tight during framing to ensure there are no wrinkles in the embroidered area. The back clip on a 270-degree frame helps hold the cap tight.

By contrast, a structured cap with the fused buckram stabilizer needs no additional backing when embroidering the fronts. The structure also holds the form of the cap while it is being embroidered. Sometimes, however, the stiff form of the fused buckram can cause problems. When you try framing a structured cap in the same way as an unstructured cap — pulling it tight at every turn — it can create tension in the fabric that can cause the design to distort as it is being sewn. Structured caps work best when they aren’t pulled as tight; as a result, they work really well in a 270-degree frame. The key is to only fasten the front of the cap when embroidering front designs. Leave the back clip off. I even keep the sides of the cap out from under the cap band.

Using Other Frame Types
Of course, not everyone uses 270-degree frames. Some use rectangular window frames, which require the same principle when using cap backing applies (use it on unstructured caps, skip it on structured caps). The way caps are actually framed will vary little. Since the frame holds the cap all the way around, the cap simply needs to be tight in the hoop, regardless of what type it is. The important thing to remember when using these types of frames is to adjust the height of the window to match the height of the cap. If the window is too large, the top part of the cap can get framed, creating a bubble in the embroidery area. This will cause distortion in the design.

If you can learn just these two variations of framing cap fronts, a significant portion of your work will be mastered.

Next time, we will look at the other placements that can go onto a cap.

Steven Batts, a consultant with 17 years experience in the embroidery industry, owns Righteous Threads, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery and machine maintenance services. Steven regularly leads seminars at ISS shows and is an industry speaker and consultant. For more information or to comment on this article, e-mail Steven at righteousthreads@gmail.com.

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