Diagnosing Digitizing Problems vs. Machine Problems

May 10, 2010
By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

When I was a technician for an embroidery machine distributor, I would take calls for various machine problems. After listening to customers and processing the information, I would offer my expert analysis of the situation. This analysis often would indicate that the problem was not with the machine at all, but rather with the digitizing.

Surprisingly, many embroiderers would sometimes reject my opinion, especially if they did their own digitizing. This scenario demonstrates the long-running dispute between machine technicians and digitizers. Technicians blame the design and digitizers blame the machine.

Now that I have my own embroidery business and do my own digitizing, I really can’t blame anyone else. Over the years, I have learned to differentiate machine issues and digitizing issues. Let’s start with the easiest issue to discern.

Thread Breakage
While thread breaks can be somewhat challenging to diagnose, discerning between digitizing problems and machine problems is fairly simple. If a machine is having problems that result in the thread breakage, those problems will occur virtually anywhere in the design. If the problem is the result of a digitizing error, the thread will break in a particular area of the design.

I remember getting a call in which the embroiderer said the machine would break thread at the same stitch number each time he sewed a design. That is very specific and unusual, but it is an indication of a digitizing problem.

The only time this gets a little tougher to discern is when there is a trimmer problem on the machine. When the trimmers malfunction on an embroidery machine, it tends to unthread immediately following a trim. This makes the thread breaks occur at the same places each time. Careful observation of the machine should make this issue very easy to differentiate.

If you suspect that your design is causing your thread breaks, there is a simple test you can do that also may end up being a solution to the problem. After loading the design in the machine, increase its size by 3% to 4%. This will spread the stitches out a little bit and alleviate problems in sections of the design where the stitches are too close together.

Registration Issues
Registration problems can be a little harder to diagnose as being caused by the machine or the design. Some of the more heated discussions I have witnessed between digitizers and mechanics were over whether the machine or the design was causing the embroidery to look the way it was turning out.

What makes this issue a little more complex is framing. We all know that if a garment is not framed or stabilized properly, it will cause design registration issues as well. So now, not only are we trying to decide whether the problem is with the machine or the digitizing, but we also have to add framing issues into the mix.

Let’s look at each one of these variables individually and see what differs in the symptoms to figure out what is causing the problem. We will start with the new variable: framing.

Since each piece is framed individually, framing errors will be more random. One piece may look fine while the next one has outlines that don't align properly. If there is not enough stabilization, you can quickly test it by adding an extra piece of stabilizer on the next run and see if it makes a difference.

Machine problems take a little more observation to detect. The key is in knowing how the machine operates. The frame can move in any direction by using a combination of horizontal and vertical movements. If the machine is having a problem, either the horizontal or vertical motion typically will not move properly — both directions will not be affected simultaneously. If you suspect machine issues, inspect the design closely to see if the stitches are distorted only in a left-to-right or front-to-back direction.

One of the ways distortion will show is that satin columns will be either significantly wider or narrower than they should be. Look for loose things when tracking down pantograph problems. Always check your frame arms to be sure they are tight. Cap frame bands are another place where the frame movement can become loose and sloppy.

Digitizing issues are fairly consistent. The problems should show up in the same places each time. Before assuming you're dealing with a digitizing problem, double check the framing and stabilization. Designs are created with a certain allowance for the push and pull of the fabric. This is based on the assumption that the garment is framed properly with proper stabilization. If that isn’t in place, then it will distort more than what the digitizer expected.

One sure-fire way to diagnose digitizing issues vs. machine issues is to use a known good design. If you have a design that you know sews particularly well and lines up properly, put it on the machine and sew it. If it has similar issues, then the machine has a problem. If it sews out fine, then the design in question is where the problem lies.

Hopefully these tips can help end this long-running feud between digitizers and mechanics. In some cases, this may even solve a few marriage issues where one spouse digitizes and the other does the sewing.

For me, it keeps me from arguing with myself. And that’s a good thing.

Steven Batts, a consultant with 17 years experience in the embroidery industry, owns Righteous Threads, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery and machine maintenance services. Steven regularly leads seminars at ISS shows and is an industry speaker and consultant. For more information or to comment on this article, e-mail Steven at righteousthreads@gmail.com.



Get Great Results with Raw-Edge or Reverse Appliqué
The word “appliqué” is derived from the French term for “applied.” As a decorating technique, appliqué has been popular for centuries — and was particularly useful for mending clothes and presenting a bold image, such as those on flags or banners. Recently, it has enjoyed a long run of popularity, particularly in reverse and distressed treatments on ready-to-wear clothing.
January 02, 2012

Add Appeal to Embroidery with Specialty Threads
Today, high-quality thread is available in both rayon and polyester fiber types, and both are popular among computerized embroiderers. In addition to these basic thread varieties, manufacturers have developed other specialty threads that create special embroidery effects.
October 10, 2011

How to Keep Embroidery Costs Lean While Maintaining Quality
Keeping processes streamlined can go a long way toward reducing expenses, while allowing decorated apparel businesses to maintain exceptional quality for their customers. Quality work will keep customers coming back, but developing time-saving processes will help your embroidery shop keep an increased profit margin. Consider using these simple steps to save your business time and you'll feel like you actually have more hours in the day.
October 04, 2011

Basics for Training Embroidery Operators: Part 2 of 2
Since we identified the groundwork that needs to be laid in Part 1 of this two-part series, now let’s identify some ways in which you should get started with implementing your training regimen for embroidery operators. You’ll also find a list of training curriculum for your embroidery operator — and supervisor — trainees to ensure they thoroughly understand the core concepts of their disciplines and responsibilities.
September 02, 2011

Making It Your Own
Do you want quick results that produce accolades from your customers? If your embroidery shop offers eye-catching designs and prompt service, clients will continue doing business with you for years to come.
August 30, 2011